Six days, around 750 km by car, from Avignon to the Gorges du Verdon and back. Twenty major sites: the Luberon perched villages, Valensole lavender, the Roman ruins of Arles and the Pont du Gard, Van Gogh in Saint-Rémy. The real Provence road trip — not the coach tour.
📍 TL;DR
Six days, around 750 km by car, from Avignon to the Gorges du Verdon and back. Twenty major sites: Luberon perched villages, Valensole lavender, Roman ruins at Arles and the Pont du Gard, Van Gogh in Saint-Rémy. Best window: late June to mid-July for lavender, or September for colours and calm. Budget from €1,200 per person (mid-range €2,100). A car is essential. Book accommodation in Gordes, Bonnieux or Moustiers and the Sénanque Abbey guided visit at least six weeks ahead in season.
Why a Road Trip Beats Any Organised Provence Tour
Organised tours from Avignon or Marseille visit four or five villages in a day and have you back at the hotel before dinner. They systematically miss the sites that make Provence: the Valensole plateau at dawn (coaches arrive at 11 AM, when the sun has already flattened the colour), the Gorges du Verdon seen from the Route des Crêtes (impassable for a coach), Saint-Rémy out of season, the northern Luberon villages like Lourmarin or Bonnieux at market time.
A self-drive road trip is the only way to walk through Gordes empty at seven in the morning, eat a long Provençal lunch in Bonnieux without watching your driver's clock, and discover that the best lavender isn't at Valensole — everyone's photographed version — but on the wilder slopes around Sault, forty minutes away, where family farms still sell their essential oil directly at the door. Provence is built for the car. Its back roads are among the most beautiful in France; its most authentic villages are the ones coaches can't reach.
Quick Overview of the Route
| Day | Route | Km | Main sites | Overnight |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Avignon | 0 (on foot) | Palais des Papes, Pont Saint-Bénézet, Place de l'Horloge | Avignon |
| 2 | Avignon → Pont du Gard → Arles | 75 | Pont du Gard, Roman Arles, Espace Van Gogh | Arles |
| 3 | Arles → Saint-Rémy → Les Baux | 50 | Saint-Paul de Mausole, Les Baux-de-Provence, Carrières des Lumières | Saint-Rémy or Maussane |
| 4 | Saint-Rémy → Luberon | 95 | Gordes, Sénanque, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Ménerbes | Gordes or Bonnieux |
| 5 | Luberon → Valensole → Verdon | 175 | Valensole plateau, Gorges du Verdon (Route des Crêtes) | Moustiers-Sainte-Marie |
| 6 | Verdon → Aix-en-Provence → Marseille | 230 | Aix-en-Provence (Cours Mirabeau, Cézanne's studio), airport | Flight home |
Before You Go: Essential Planning Notes
When to Go
For lavender, the window is precise: June 20 to July 15, peaking in the first week of July. After July 15 the harvest begins and the Valensole fields are cut within days. Before June 20 the lavender is still green.
For everything else — villages, wine, light, Roman ruins — September and early October are superior: mild temperatures, harvest underway, the golden light that made the region famous among painters, and three times fewer visitors than July–August. May is also excellent, except the lavender isn't there yet. Avoid the first half of August: temperatures regularly over 35°C, packed villages, doubled prices.
How to Get Around
You'll drive. No French region is less suited to public transport than rural Provence. Hire a small automatic at Avignon airport or the Avignon TGV station. If you fly into Marseille, take the 35-minute TGV to Avignon and hire from there — it saves 90 km of backtracking. Parking costs €3–6 per day in villages, €12/day in Avignon. Budget €150–200 for fuel across the 750 km.
How Much It Costs
| Category | Budget | Mid-range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation (5 nights) | €420 | €950 | €2,250 |
| Meals | €280 | €520 | €980 |
| Sites and entry fees | €95 | €130 | €220 |
| Car hire + fuel | €290 | €380 | €580 |
| Parking and tolls | €50 | €75 | €110 |
| Total per person | €1,135 | €2,055 | €4,140 |
Prices assume two people sharing. International flights are extra — €80–250 from elsewhere in Europe, $700–1,400 from North America.
Bookings You Must Make in Advance
Accommodation in Gordes, Bonnieux, or Moustiers books out four to six months ahead for lavender season. The guided tour of Sénanque Abbey (the only way into the cloister) needs three to four weeks' notice in June–July. The Palais des Papes requires a timed entry in high season. The Carrières des Lumières at Les Baux fills at weekends. L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel in Arles needs eight to ten weeks' notice. The villages themselves are free and always open.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1 — Avignon: The City of Popes
Pick up your car on arrival and park outside the walls (Parking des Italiens, around €12/day). Avignon's historic centre is effectively pedestrian — you won't need the car until tomorrow.
Palais des Papes. One of the largest Gothic palaces in Europe, residence of the popes during the 14th century when the papacy was exiled from Italy. Entry €12, about two hours. The Histopad augmented-reality tablet (included) is strongly recommended — it reconstructs the rooms as they looked in the 14th century. Avoid the last hour before closing: poor lighting.
Pont Saint-Bénézet. The famous bridge from the nursery rhyme. Four arches remain of the original twenty-two. Short visit (€5), mainly for the panorama. Twenty minutes is enough.
Place de l'Horloge. Avignon's living heart, lined with cafés. Good for an aperitif around 6 PM. The more discreet Place Crillon is better for dinner.
Dinner: La Mirande (fine dining in the former cardinals' palace — the Sunday kitchen dinner in the historic 17th-century kitchen is Avignon's signature experience), Christian Étienne (Michelin-starred), or L'Épicerie on Place Saint-Pierre for something relaxed.
Where to sleep: La Mirande (premium, 14th-century cardinal's palace), Hôtel d'Europe (classic premium), Hôtel Bristol (central mid-range), Hôtel Boquier (budget, inside the walls).
Day 2 — Pont du Gard and Arles: Roman Provence
Pont du Gard. Thirty minutes from Avignon. A first-century Roman aqueduct, 49 metres high and perfectly preserved — one of the three most impressive Roman survivals in the world. Entry €10. Allow two to three hours. Best photograph from the left bank, level with the second tier, in early morning.
Arles. Fifty kilometres south. Former Roman provincial capital and Van Gogh's city (1888–1889).
- Roman Amphitheatre (Arènes d'Arles), still used for bullfights and Camargue races. Entry €9 including the adjacent ancient theatre.
- Cloître Saint-Trophime, a masterpiece of Provençal Romanesque, often missed. €5.
- Espace Van Gogh: the former hospital where Van Gogh was admitted. The garden courtyard has been restored to match his 1889 painting. Free entry.
- Café Van Gogh, Place du Forum: repainted yellow to match Café Terrace at Night — a tourist trap (€12 for bad coffee) but the exterior photo is free.
Dinner: L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel (two Michelin stars, three hours, book ten weeks ahead), or L'Autruche for modern Provençal bistro.
Where to sleep: Hôtel Particulier d'Arles (premium, 18th-century), Hôtel L'Arlatan (mosaic-rich, artistic), Hôtel du Forum (central mid-range).
Day 3 — Saint-Rémy and Les Baux: Van Gogh and White Stone
Saint-Paul-de-Mausole. Ten minutes south of Saint-Rémy. The asylum where Van Gogh was voluntarily committed from May 1889 to May 1890 — where he painted 150 canvases including The Starry Night and Irises. The recreated room and medieval cloister are open to visit. Entry €8, allow 90 minutes. The path to the olive groves lets you find the exact landscapes of several paintings.
Glanum. Five minutes on foot from Saint-Paul. Graeco-Roman site from the 3rd century BC, with a mausoleum and triumphal arch visible from the road. Entry €9, one hour. Avoid midday in summer — no shade.
Les Baux-de-Provence. Twenty minutes south. Medieval village on a rocky spur, one of France's "Plus Beaux Villages." Park below (€6), walk up. The ruined citadel at the top (€10) gives a 360° view over the Alpilles.
Carrières des Lumières. At the foot of Les Baux, in a former bauxite quarry. Immersive video projection on the white stone walls. €14.50. An hour in the cool dark is surprisingly moving. Book an 11 AM slot to avoid afternoon crowds.
Where to sleep: Domaine de Manville (five-star with golf), Hôtel Le Hameau des Baux (restored mas), or Hôtel Gounod in Saint-Rémy.
Day 4 — The Luberon: Perched Villages
Visually the most intense day of the trip. Four main stops, around 95 km total — count on a full day.
Sénanque Abbey. 45 minutes from Saint-Rémy. The 12th-century Cistercian abbey, still active, with its celebrated lavender field in front of the Romanesque façade — the photograph everyone has seen. Interior visit (guided tour only, €9, must be pre-booked) takes an hour. Arrive before 9 AM for good light and no crowds.
Gordes. Five minutes further. The most photographed village in Provence — the viewpoint on the D177 is mandatory. The village itself: church square, Renaissance château (€10), caladé lanes. Avoid 11 AM–4 PM in season.
Roussillon. Thirty minutes east. Built entirely in red and yellow ochre stone. The Sentier des Ocres (€3) is a 30–60-minute loop through the former quarries — landscapes with an almost American feel, a mini Bryce Canyon. Wear shoes you don't mind staining.
Bonnieux and Ménerbes. Two neighbouring villages ten minutes apart. Bonnieux has the best Luberon view from its 12th-century church. Ménerbes was immortalised by Peter Mayle in A Year in Provence. Both take 30–45 minutes each.
Where to sleep: La Bastide de Gordes (five-star, view of the village), Le Phébus & Spa at Joucas (five-star relais, secluded), or La Maison sur la Sorgue in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (25 minutes, much cheaper).
Day 5 — Valensole Plateau and Gorges du Verdon
The signature day — leave before sunrise.
Valensole Plateau. 90 minutes from the Luberon. The largest lavender expanse in Provence — and probably the world. Arrive before 7 AM in June–July: golden light, cool air (lavender releases more scent in the chill), and you'll be alone. By 10 AM, dozens of coaches arrive. Key spots: the Lavanderaie d'Angelvin field on the D6, the lone tree near the D8, and the entire D6 stretch between Valensole and Riez. Never walk into the fields — they're commercial crops. The Lavandes Angelvin distillery (free, essential oil tasting) explains the difference between fine lavender (above 600 m, triple the price) and lavandin (the hybrid in 80% of photographed fields).
Gorges du Verdon. 45 minutes east. Europe's "Grand Canyon" — a 700-metre-deep limestone gorge with improbable turquoise water. The Route des Crêtes (D71, 23 km loop from La Palud-sur-Verdon) is the most beautiful panoramic road in France. Fourteen viewpoints, two to three hours for the full loop. One-way (clockwise) in summer. Alternatively, hire a kayak at Lac de Sainte-Croix (€25/2 hours) and paddle into the canyon from the water.
Where to sleep: Bastide de Moustiers (five-star, former Alain Ducasse relais), La Bonne Auberge in Moustiers (mid-range), Hôtel des Restanques in La Palud (rustic, great for hikers).
Day 6 — Aix-en-Provence and Home
Three hours in Aix is enough to understand why Cézanne never wanted to paint anywhere else.
Cours Mirabeau. Aix's main avenue, shaded by centuries-old plane trees. Les Deux Garçons — Cézanne and Zola's school café — recently reopened after years of closure.
Atelier Cézanne. The studio Cézanne had built in 1902 and where he painted until his death in 1906. Everything remains in place: his easel, tools, the porcelain fruit he used as still-life props. Entry €8, 30–45 minutes, moving.
Carrières de Bibémus (optional): where Cézanne painted his Mont Sainte-Victoire series. Guided visit only, €8, from the tourist office. Combine with the studio if you have four hours.
Lunch on the Cours Mirabeau before heading to Marseille airport (45 minutes via A51 then A7).
Variations on This Itinerary
The Condensed 4-Day Version
Avignon (day 1), Luberon loop (day 2), Valensole + Verdon (day 3), Aix + airport (day 4). Drops Arles, Saint-Rémy, and Les Baux. Covers the lavender and perched villages essentials.
The Extended 10-Day Version
Adds the Camargue (white horses, flamingos, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer) between Arles and Saint-Rémy, and two days on the coast (Cassis and the Calanques, Marseille) before returning.
Provence with Children
Children love the Carrières des Lumières, the Pont du Gard (swimming in the Gardon in summer), and short village visits. Consider replacing some cultural stops with time at Lac de Sainte-Croix (swimming, pedalo, beach) and a day at the Village des Bories near Gordes.
Wine-Lover's Version
Extend by one day for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, and Vacqueyras. Book winery visits at least a week ahead — Provence doesn't have the walk-in culture.
Honeymoon Version
Replace two nights with Coquillade Provence (near Gordes, spa), La Bastide de Moustiers (Ducasse), and dinner in the inner courtyard of La Mirande in Avignon. Add a private estate tasting at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Book a local photographer for a lavender dawn session — €300–500 for the best photographs of the trip.
Plan Your Version with Viatture
The itinerary above is a template. Maybe you have five days, not six. Maybe you want to add Nice and the Côte d'Azur after the Verdon. Maybe you're travelling with children and need every hotel to have a pool. Viatture takes this Provence itinerary and reconfigures it around your dates, travel style, budget, and preferences — returning a personalised itinerary with hotels actually available on those dates, wineries to visit at each stop, and restaurants matched to your pace.
🗺️ Ready-made itinerary
Try the interactive Harry Potter route
Accommodation, costs, and day-by-day plan — adjust travelers and budget in seconds.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do you need for a Provence road trip?
Six days is the realistic minimum to cover Avignon, Arles, the Luberon, lavender, and the Gorges du Verdon without rushing. Four days works for the essentials (Luberon + lavender + one base), but drops either Arles or the Verdon. Ten days lets you add the Camargue and the Mediterranean coast.
When does lavender bloom in Provence?
Lavender is in full bloom from around June 20 to July 15, peaking in the first week of July. The harvest starts around July 15–25 and the Valensole fields are cut within days. Before June 20 the lavender is still green and unopen.
Do you absolutely need to rent a car for Provence?
Yes, unless you stay exclusively in the large cities (Avignon, Arles, Aix, Marseille). The Luberon perched villages, Valensole plateau, and Gorges du Verdon are impossible to visit seriously by public transport. Organised bus tours are an alternative but severely limit the experience.
What is the best starting point for a Provence road trip?
Avignon, almost always. Its TGV station connects directly to Paris (2h40), Lyon, and Marseille. If you fly into Marseille, take the 35-minute TGV to Avignon and pick up the car there — it saves 90 km of backtracking.
How much does a Provence road trip cost for two people?
Budget around €2,270 for two people in the budget tier, €4,110 mid-range, and €8,280 premium, over six days excluding international flights. Car rental and accommodation are the most variable costs.
Should you book Provence hotels in advance?
Absolutely, especially for lavender season (late June to mid-July) and August. Boutique mas and hotels in the Luberon (Gordes, Bonnieux) are often fully booked four to six months ahead for those periods. In May, September, and October, two to three months is generally enough.
Are the Gorges du Verdon worth the detour?
Yes, without reservation. The Route des Crêtes is one of the most spectacular panoramic drives in Europe and the contrast with the Luberon landscapes gives the trip real variety. If you only have one day at the Verdon, do the Route des Crêtes loop and a short swim at Lac de Sainte-Croix.
Are there lesser-known Provence sites worth including?
Several: Lourmarin and Cucuron (southern Luberon, far less crowded than Gordes), Sault (alternative lavender at altitude, more authentic), Salin-de-Giraud (Camargue salt marshes), Cassis (Mediterranean port and access to the Calanques), and the Village des Bories near Gordes (pre-Roman dry-stone constructions).
What should you eat in Provence?
Signature dishes: aïoli, ratatouille, bouillabaisse (only in Marseille and Cassis), pissaladière, tapenade, tian de légumes, Sisteron lamb, calissons d'Aix, and fresh local goat's cheeses. For wines: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Côtes du Luberon, and Côtes de Provence rosés.
Is the Mistral wind a real problem?
Yes. The Mistral is a powerful north-westerly wind that blows around 100 days per year, mainly in spring and autumn, regularly exceeding 70 km/h for several consecutive days. It makes exposed hikes difficult and some photography impossible. Check the forecast before you go.
About the author
Viatture Editorial Team
Road Trip Editorial
The Viatture editorial team has driven every route on the platform before publishing it. We write practical guides built on real kilometres — not press trips.
